面料的褶皱在服装设计中的应用
中文摘要：造型是服装设计的要素之一，外轮廓线以及廓型的设计是一项重要的工序。服装外形不仅体现了服装的风格，也展现了人体的线条美。设计师根据自己的构思设计服装的外型结构， 对服装面料进行塑造，而面料的外观效果能够影响一件服装的风格特点。对服装面料的选择和再创造，可以通过纺织、印染及后整理等工艺制造出不同的表面肌理效果，由此来改变整个服装的造型和外观。制褶，起皱是其中的重要手段。面料的褶皱处理使服装产生不同的质地变化，给人不同的视觉和触觉感受，突出服装的独特造型风格。通过对国内外服装流行资料的分析，对现有面料褶皱处理工艺（织造、后整理）和服装的褶皱处理(二次加工)方法进行研究，不同的处理方法会产生不同的艺术效果。
关键词：面料；褶皱；服装设计；工艺；应用
Abstract：Modeling is one of the Costume Designing’s elements; contour and profile design is an important part of the operation. Clothing’s shape not only embody the style of clothing, but also display the body lines. According to the designer’s own ideas,he designs the structure appearance of clothing,fabrics’ mold, and the effect of fabrics’ appearance can influences a clothing’s style and characteristics.Choiceing and recreating fabrics by spinning and weaving , dyeing and finishing process to create different surface texture effects, which can change the shape and appearance of the entire clothing. Make creases and wrinkles one of the important means. Creases of fabrics make garment show texture changes, and give different visual and tactile feeling , emphasize the clothing’s unique modeling style. By analysing the information of the fashion-trend about clothing in home and abroad, we studied the treating-technology of drapes on clothing fabrics that on sale (textile and finishing process) and the means about making drapes on clothing(the secong-processing), knew that different treating methods may present different artistic effects.
Key words：Fabric；Drape；Costume design；Technology；Application
